Tips for Navigating Extreme Cold While Wearing a Suit

Being adequately prepared is crucial when facing extreme cold weather conditions. Even seemingly minor oversights, such as wearing improper boots, can have life-threatening consequences. While the risks may not be as severe in populated areas, it's still essential to take precautions.

While many men may know how to dress casually for the cold by donning a parka, beanie, gloves, and perhaps long johns, I've witnessed numerous individuals shivering on the streets in unsuitable attire like a thin suit and tie, lacking proper cold-weather gear.

Wearing a black blazer in winter can be stylish, but it's essential to prioritize warmth and comfort. Walking around without a coat in cold weather can not only be uncomfortable but also potentially dangerous, leading to blue lips and bright red hands. Elevate both your comfort and style by incorporating proper professional winter clothing and accessories into your wardrobe. In this guide, I'll provide essential tips on how to dress up effectively when the temperature drops.

WINTER SUITS

Let's begin with the cornerstone of winter dressed-up looks: the winter suit.

There's a lot to cover on this topic! In fact, as I worked on this guide, this section became so detailed that it evolved into a standalone article.

OVERCOATS FOR THE COLD

Perhaps the most obvious way to stay warm when dressed up is to wear a coat. However, with a suit a puffy parka just looks off.

                 Big difference, right?

Investing in the right classic wool overcoat can keep you warm even in sub-zero temperatures.

The warmest overcoats often feature a fur lining. While faux fur can provide insulation, real fur generally offers superior warmth. If you're hesitant about fur, opting for vintage coats can be a sustainable alternative. However, if the idea of wearing real fur is discomforting, even if it's from decades ago, consider searching for a faux-fur-lined coat.

It's worth noting that most men's overcoats available today aren't as warm as those from previous generations. Warmly lined coats are hard to come by, and the wool itself is typically thinner with looser weaves.

Additionally, modern coats tend to be shorter, with hems rising well above the knee, which can impact their functionality in extreme cold.

Consider the practicality of coat length: shorter coats expose more of your body, while longer coats trap body heat and shield pants from mud and slush.

Although shorter men typically look best in coats that end above the knee, I recently acquired a mid-calf-length coat that I adore. While it exudes an old-school charm, I'm cautious not to pair it with unusual or outdated accessories like fedoras or tie bars to avoid appearing overly theatrical.

Some individuals can effortlessly pull off the vintage aesthetic without seeming like caricatures, depending on their personality and confidence level.

When selecting an overcoat, consider features such as wide lapels that can be folded across the chest as a scarf alternative, sleeve straps, long sleeves, double-breasted button patterns, and a loose cut to accommodate multiple layers underneath.

Personally, I own three wool overcoats, each with different lengths and features to suit various occasions and preferences.

COMPARING 3 DIFFERENT OVERCOATS

My first overcoat was a mid-thigh length single-breasted black wool coat with functional lapels, a faux-fur zip-in lining, and a hood.

Although a hood isn't a traditional feature of overcoats, I've found it incredibly practical, especially during the 4-5 years when it was my sole winter coat. It has been a lifesaver, quite literally protecting my ears from frostbite when caught out in the cold without a hat.

I've worn this coat in temperatures as low as -40 degrees, and with proper layering, I managed to stay reasonably comfortable (albeit a bit uncomfortable) in such extreme conditions.

My second overcoat was a custom piece from Hockerty. While I wouldn't necessarily recommend the brand, the coat itself turned out exceptionally well.

It reaches to just above the knee and has a double-breasted 6-button design. While this navy coat isn’t as warm as my other two, it’s the most formal out of the bunch. 

Lastly, my newest addition is a vintage Donegal tweed piece I picked up in Minnesota a few months ago.

It’s a long coat — dropping well past the knee to mid-calf. It also has a 6-button DB design. It has notched lapels, which is quite rare for a double-breasted coat. Usually, DB garments with notched lapels look off somehow. 

I think it works in this case. What do you think? Let me know in the comments what you think. 

BOOTS FOR FREEZING TEMPERATURES

While dress shoes can be worn in winter (I do so frequently), if you'll be commuting by walking or public transport, boots are essential.

For trudging through deep snow, it's best to forgo wearing a suit altogether and opt for true snow boots. These should feature an insulated lining, a tall shank, and excellent traction.

However, if you require boots for city living that can handle cold and snow while remaining suitable for suits, there are some options available.

During my time in Russia, I owned a pair of leather service boots with laces and a convenient side zipper. These boots also had a faux-fur lining and provided good traction, making them highly recommended for such conditions.

Another option is combat boots. Years later, during winters in the Nordic countries, I tested out Thursday's Explorer Boots, eventually passing them on to a friend in Buffalo, NY.

Thursday Boots Explorer review

They were excellent in for city use, but definitely not cut out for use up above the Arctic Circle (you’ll find out why later on in this article). 

If you live in NYC, Boston, or Chicago, consider these boots. 

LAYERING FOR EXTREME COLD

Nailing extreme cold looks is all about mastering the art of layering, whether you're rocking a suit or just chilling indoors. No need to overthink it – just bundle up in a heavyweight suit, toss on a cozy overcoat, and sprinkle in some winter accessories. You'll be the toastiest trendsetter in town! ❄️🕶️

Turtleneck Outfit

However, if I’ll be outside for longer than a few minutes layering becomes critical to my comfort and safety. 

If you’re wondering about layering from a style perspective, read this article. 

BASELAYER

The foundation of winter layering are your baselayers. 

While I prefer synthetic materials here, wool works too. 

Long-sleeved undershirts take many forms. You can experiment and choose what works best for you. 

Up top, I might wear a compression shirt and on the bottom, running tights. 

I find that running tights are quite a bit warmer than standard long johns (they’re pretty much the same thing, running tights are just thicker and have more features as they can be worn as an outer layer when running). 

In extreme cases, you could wear long johns and running tights underneath your suit pants. 

SOCKS FOR BONE-NUMBING TEMPERATURES

As you’ve probably guessed, this situation calls for thick wool socks. You might even want to wear two pairs. 

While it would be ideal to wear socks that are as similar to dress socks as possible, it’s more important that you’re warm. You’ll mostly likely be wearing boots so no one will see you’re socks anyway.

MID-LAYER (DRESS SHIRTS)

As a mid-layer, you’ll probably want to wear a dress shirt.

If you do, you can benefit from choosing a thicker cotton than usual, but, honestly, it’s fine to wear what you would normally. Your other layers will do the heavy lifting in keeping you warm.

In lieu of a dress shirt, you could choose a slim-fitting turtleneck sweater.

Besides having the added benefit of protecting your neck, a wool sweater is more insulating than a cotton shirt. 

SUIT

After you’re wearing your base layer (s) and your dress shirt, it’s time to put on your suit. As I’ve already discussed winter suits above, there’s no need to expound more here. 

OUTERWEAR

Now finally it’s time to slip into your overcoat. Make sure that you’re ready to leave the house before putting it on — you don’t want to overheat and start sweating.

Like Survivorman, Les Stroud, always says “If you sweat, you die.” (While perhaps that’s a bit melodramatic in most cases, you definitely don’t want to be sweating when it’s -35 degrees). 

ACCESSORIES

I’ve found that proper winter accessories often are the difference between cold and miserable and being comfortable in frigid conditions. 

HATS

You lose a lot of heat from your head so it’s vital to wear a hat if you’ll be outside for extended lengths of time. 

While you can choose a wide-brimmed hat, like a fedora, it’s not a top pick for me. For one thing, I don’t think I could pull it off without looking like a cartoonish caricature of a 50s mobster. Besides that, you want to keep your ears covered. 

A regular run-of-the-mill beanie does the job in a pinch, but it’s an inherently casual piece. I’d recommend trying to find a winter hat that’s a little more structured. This winter I’ve found myself wearing this watchcap often with my wool overcoats.

Wool watch cap

It’s comfortable and pretty warm. I can actually adjust the band to cover my ears, and there’s a hidden earflap tucked inside (though when I use it my friends say I look like a medieval peasant). 

When it’s truly, seriously cold, you can’t do any better than a fur hat. I got mine years ago in St. Petersburg, and I’ve worn it at least a couple of times every winter since.

SCARVES

Americans men don’t like scarves. That’s a generalization, I know, but I’ve found it to be mostly true. 

In Europe, scarves are ubiquitous. Maybe it’s the stereotypical European knack for fashion talking, but I have a theory that it’s because Europeans are more likely to walk or take public transit than us Yankees. 

While you may be the only guy in your friend group wearing one, consider wearing a scarf. (Especially if you already stand out by wearing a formal wool overcoat and a suit).

I’ve noticed that scarves are especially useful for keeping my chest warm and dry when I’m wearing an overcoat that doesn’t button all the way up to the top. 

When buying a scarf, pick wool instead of cotton or acrylic (wool insulates even when wet).

GLOVES/MITTENS

Not only should you think about keeping your neck warm, your hands need to be covered up too. 

Cashmere-lined leather gloves are a classic choice for dressing up in winter. However, there comes a point when even these may not provide enough warmth.

When temperatures plummet, it's time to switch to mittens. Mittens offer superior warmth but can reduce dexterity.

While it's challenging to find mittens that pair well with a suit or formal overcoat, during extremely cold weather, I opt for my black sportswear-style mittens for maximum insulation.

PROTECT YOUR CHEEKS

Below about -15 or so you’re going to need to cover up your face. You can use a thermal neck gaiter, but I find that a scarf works well too.

You better believe it was cold this day!

Simply wrap the scarf around your neck a few times and tuck in your nose and chin.